The Studio.

Who is behind the studio?

We’re a duo : Eline Le Callennec & Mickaël Charbonnel

What is your background?

Eline : We created the Maison in 2018, we were both Art Directors at the time. I was in fashion and Mickaël in advertising. We worked in the field of luxury, mainly fashion, in Paris and London (Alexander McQueen, Roger Vivier, Marie Katrantzou, McLaren automobile) before establishing our own studio. Our clients are mainly in high-end fashion, although we also collaborate with interior and stationary brands now.

Mickaël : And we’ve expanded our expertise into textile printing. We’ve created partnerships with textile printing factories who already were our suppliers to offer design and print manufacturing.

Describe your style.

Eline : The studio produces two collections of pattern designs yearly as well as designs on commission and briefs across the year. We work mostly in line with trends, one to two years in advance. We have a mix of styles in house, ranging from colourful traditional with watercolour illustration to digital abstract and geometrical designs. While we keep experimenting and researching we look for ideas that trigger inspiration, designs that are easily accepted and fit with our client’s brand DNA.

Mickaël : We design collaboratively which brings a wealth of creative and aesthetic input with different techniques and know-how. We challenge ourselves to produce innovative and original prints.

What are your main inspirations / influences ?

The street, filled with all sorts of people, architecture and images is an endless source of inspiration for us. We’re lucky that Paris is so diverse with so many interesting streets bursting with creativity. It's a very rich place when one pays attention.

Which place inspires you the most?

Eline : The Victoria & Albert museum textile archives. Several centuries of printed samples preserved in the heart of this victorian monument, it’s a mystical place.

Mickaël : Arles, the town where I grew up. I’m definitely biased towards it. However it feels like there’s a mix of mystery and exuberance in these still, sun bathed provençal streets.

What sets off your passion for prints?

Eline : My family has been in the embroidery and lace industry for several generations. As a child I used to stroll around the factory floor, watching the draftsmen work on their patterns, flicking through the archive books. Much later I discovered screen printing at art school and that was magic.

Mickael : “Dazzle” warship prints by Norman Wilkinson triggered my interest in prints. Huge geometric abstract patterns painted on the side of the ships aimed at disturbing their enemies' perception. Then I realised how they influenced patterns everywhere around us.

Your first print memories.

Eline : A sweatshirt in a typical 90’s style. It was emerald green printed with white puff binding (that was so new and cool at the time), gifted to me by American friends of my parents when I was 8.

Mickaël : Ma grand mother and my mum had fabric shops in the South of France. On Sundays they used to roll fabric on boards to put them on the shop shelves during the week. Meanwhile, I used to sit there, looking at the prints.

Describe your creation process.

Eline : We start with reading, magazines, catwalks, exhibitions, picture research to extract themes that feel right in the emerging trends. From this we create mood boards with matching colour harmonies. When the themes are developed we start sketching the next wave of designs.

Mickaël : When we work on commission we follow an almost similar process, only shorter, and with our client in the loop.

What is your favorite medium to work with and why?

Eline : I love mixing techniques with a predilection for watercolor and ink. I love their delicate transparencies and the soft shades of washes. I often rework them with ink pen or thin black felt pens. I started working on iPad which gives me a lot of creative freedom.

Mickael : I’m on the opposite side, I like to spend time behind the computer screen, making my own digital tools, experimenting with software, discovering shapes I’d never thought of before.

While working, what do you listen?

Eline : It’s very “Brasil” at the moment. But I also listen to France inter radio, electronic music, 70’s rock, not forgetting France Gall and Gainsbourg out loud on Fridays. And classical in headphones when I need to focus. It’s pretty eclectic.

Mickaël : I generally listen to whatever Eline listens to. Especially on Fridays...

What is your job's favorite part ?

Eline : I enjoy all the research and ideation part, creating colour combinations and art direction. It feels new and exciting each time. I love to hear positive feedback and to see our prints on finished products. Sometimes they come out as much as 2 years after they’re designed. It’s hard to wait for so long!

Mickael : Finding that I understand what a client needs and the feeling of having a good idea.

What type of product / sector do you mainly work for ?

Eline : we work mainly for high-end womenswear and menswear. We also work on kids briefs, interior and pack.

On which fairs do you exhibit?

Eline : Première Vision Design and Interfilière

Your best fairs memories.

Eline : I remember the first prints we sold on a tradeshow, when we started out. They were purchased by a Russian brand who paid straight away in cash with 100 euros banknotes. We felt like gangsters.

Mickaël : A japanese client taking selfies with us to share with his office.

What do you want to accomplish in the future?

Eline : More artistic collaborations with brands and editors, on top of regular designs sells. Working with commercial agents and growing the studio with new talents.

The biggest challenge you had to handle as a designer?

Eline : Juggling everything at once : the studio, collections, clients, family life...

Mick : The next commission ?

What advice would you like to give to new designers who are just starting out?

Eline : Don’t wait for projects to come knocking at your door. Feel confident you can, go and get them yourself, and meet the right people at the same time. Keep your focus despite the barriers that get in the way. And remember that you’re doing this job because you love it!

Have you seen the profession change?

Eline : It has changed, no doubt. Digital printing has arrived and new technologies give us more freedom than ever to push colours and designs in infinite ways.

Do you like or regret things about this change?

Eline : We like innovation and change. Our society is so obsessed with images, pattern designs are an unmissable commercial advantage. Designers must adapt and make the most of the possibilities offered by the current economical and cultural context both on business and artistic levels.